Do you want an attractive, environmentally friendly lawn and garden but don’t know where to start? With a few simple practices and help from some innovative products you can enjoy your own oasis and do what’s right for the environment too.
Cut out the chemicals
It’s time to wean your garden off synthetic or chemical fertilizers, pesticides
and herbicides. These substances promote rapid but weak plant growth, destroy soil fertility and can be toxic. Instead, use the following tips to achieve a healthy, lush garden without harmful chemicals.
Use water wisely
With our climate doing stranger things by the minute, it’s not unusual to hear of mid-summer watering restrictions. Water-wise landscaping (xeriscaping) can reduce normal water use by two-thirds during our driest months.
• Amend soil in garden beds with products like coir-based, SoilSponge, which helps retain water. As the soil dries out, SoilSponge releases moisture to plants as they need it. Coir (pronounced “koi’er”) is the 3 to 5 cm thick fibrous layer between the green skin and the hard brown shell of a coconut.
• Disconnect your downspouts and direct water into garden beds or a
rain barrel.
• Use soaker hoses instead of sprinklers in order to decrease unnecessary water evaporation. Sprinklers that shoot low to the ground are superior to the oscillating fan type that lose water to evaporation and wind drift.
• Water during the coolest part of the day. Watering during the early morning is best. Late day watering encourages mould and mid-day watering is a complete waste of precious resources.
• Water your plants and lawn only when they need it. Even though it may be hot outside your lawn may not need watering.
• Water thoroughly and less frequently. Watering lightly and frequently harms plants by encouraging shallow root systems. Water deeply and less often. Water your lawn no more than once a week with about 2.5 cm of water.
• Mulch (no more than 3 or 4 inches deep) used around the roots of shrubs and trees and in flower beds reduces evaporation and prevents the formation of weeds. Mulch material includes wood chips, shredded bark, grass clippings and tree leaves.
• Choose drought tolerant plants.
• Alter your property grading to trap storm water runoff instead of conveying it away from your property. Small changes in grading can help store water
for plants.
• Use a container such as a rain barrel to capture rainwater from your eavestrough. This water can be used later on your garden.
Mulch, mulch and mulch some more
Don’t forget to apply mulch to your lawn and garden. Leaves, grass clippings and wood chips are just some of the mulches available to help your garden and lawn retain moisture, provide valuable nutrients and reduce weeds. Mulch also reduces water loss.
As mulch decomposes, it adds humus to the soil, helping it hold the moisture even more. Mulching is best done in the late Spring – before hot weather arrives and your perennials and annuals are small enough to work around. Topping off your mulch is best done in the Fall. Use 5-10 cm of fine mulch or 20-30 cm if it’s a course mulch like wood chips. Don’t pack it down and give it a good soak by using a watering can or soaker hose.
Healthy springtime lawns
• Springtime watering is on Mother Nature’s bill. Rain is free and plentiful this time of year so, no need to water.
• Replace lawn areas with wildflower meadows, trees and shrubs.
• Aerate your lawn to promote infiltration. Use a lawn aerator to help your lawn breath. Use an aerator to allow water, oxygen flow and fertilizer to reach your grass’ root zone. Aeration is an excellent way for clay-based and compacted soil to retain nutrients and moisture. For smaller lawns use a pitchfork, aerator shoes or a foot-press aerator. Aeration is especially beneficial prior to fertilizer application.
• Mow high. Raise your lawn mower blades to a height of 7.5 cm (3 inches). Longer grass has deeper roots, can crowd out weeds and retains the soil’s moisture. Mowing your lawn every week might be a routine but it’s not mandatory.
• Leave the grass clippings. Stop bagging or raking your
lawn clippings. Clippings provide valuable nutrients (nitrogen), help retain moisture and make it difficult for weeds to grow. Clippings break down quickly and disappear within a day or two.
• Choose the right mower. A mulching mower is ideal for large lawns because the grass clippings are finely chopped and returned to the soil. For smaller lawns, try using a push mower... it gives a good cut and doesn’t contribute to noise and air pollution.
• Keep your blades sharp. Dull mower blades tear the grass, and this can lead to disease and heat stress. Sharpen your blades twice a season.
• Mow before weeds go to seed.
• Drop grass seed to discourage weeds. Spread grass seeds after you get rid of your weeds. This makes it harder for weeds to grow back and keeps your lawn thick and healthy.
For more information on organic lawns and organic gardens, please see http://www.markham.ca/markham/channels/stratserv/environment/environature.htm
The Art of Composting
Composting means turning organic waste into rich soil called humus. Backyard composting is easy to learn and is full of benefits for you and the environment. Organic wastes that can be composted include fruit and vegetable peelings, coffee grounds, grass clippings and leaves. Some things you should not include in your backyard compost include meat or dairy products and weed seeds.
Five factors for an effective, efficient compost pile:
• Food: A perfect mixture of material consists of ½ brown (carbon-based material) and ½ green (nitrogen-based) materials.
• Air: The organisms that live inside your compost bin need air to survive. Mix or turn the pile three to five times per season. Proper aeration can make a big difference. You will know if your bin is not getting enough oxygen if the pile smells of ammonia.
• Water: Moist and not too damp. The organisms need water to survive, but not too much or they will drown. The ideal moisture level of your compost pile should be like that of a wrung out sponge.
• Surface Area: Small is best. Cut up or shred organic waste materials before placing them into the compost bin. This increases the surface area and speeds up decomposition. You can also store your kitchen scraps in your freezer to speed up decomposition, as your materials break down at the cell level when frozen.
• Bin Volume: Not too big and not too small. A bin should be between 3’ x 3’ x 3’ and 5’ x 5’ x 5’. A bin that is too small cannot retain enough heat. If the bin is too large, it won’t get enough air to the centre of the pile. You can build a compost bin yourself out of new or recycled materials, or you can buy one at a home or garden centre.
For more information on composting, check out the Town of Markham website at: http://www.markham.ca/markham/channels/wastemgmt/compost.htm#C01
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